I love this beer. The first time I tried it, I dreamed of making an IPA this tasty. I'll save us a lot of time blabbering on about the recipe, as I covered it pretty well here. I never did figure out which yeast to use, but WLP007 has done pretty well in the past cloning Stone beers, so I decided to roll with it.
Mitch Steele is pretty awesome, as he ended up responding to my e-mail. Let's clarify that sentence. I emailed Stone's generic 'info@stone.com' address, and Mitch Steele, their Brewmaster, responds. That's awesome for a few reasons, most of which being that Stone and Mitch clearly care about the homebrewing community. Anyway, he told me Enjoy By is a mix of American and English 2-row with a little dextrose. I settled in on a 50/50 blend, and about 5-6% Dextrose. He also said that both the late-kettle and whirlpool hop additions were a little over 1lb/bbl. I decided that approx. 4oz of hops per addition was appropriate. Since Stone already goes into great detail about their hop schedule, we've pretty much got the whole recipe.
I started off by whipping up a 3L starter of WLP007 on my stir plate. I hit the starter with plenty of nutrients and O2 before pitching in a fresh vial. That fermented out pretty quick, and I ended up brewing this on April Fools day. It's been a beautiful and warm Spring, which made for a nice day to brew outside. I mashed for 75min, boiled for 90min, and somehow managed to hit my target OG. Then I whirlpooled the wort for 20min immediately after flameout before I began chilling it. The wort was 62F flowing into the fermenter, and I oxygenated for 90sec before pitching my slug of yeast. The yeast took off within 12 hours, and hit final gravity in around 5 days.
Brewed: 04-01-13
Dry Hopped: 04-09-13
Kegged: 04-16-13
OG: 1.082
FG: 1.012
ABV: 9.3%
IBU: 90
6 Gallons
8.25lbs English Pale Malt (3.5L)
8.25lbs 2-row
1lb Dextrose
Mash at 147* for 75min
Stone gives the exact hops they use. I substituted a few based on what I have, what I want to use up, and what I feel won't make a difference. You'll see the hop Stone uses in parenthesis.
2oz Belma (Calypso) - Mash Hopped
10ml Hop Extract @ 90min
1oz ea. Simcoe, Belma (Delta), Northern Brewer(Target), Amarillo @ 15
1.25oz ea. Citra, Cascade, Centennial (Motueka) @ Flameout
Whirlpool for 20min
WLP007 - Dry English Ale Yeast
Dry Hop 1: 1.5oz ea Nelson Sauvin & Galaxy
Dry Hop 2: 1.5oz ea Nelson Sauvin & Galaxy
I racked this beer into a keg to act as a secondary after roughly a week, and added the first dose of dry hops. I'm definitely digging the dry hopper mesh-thing-ama-jig from Stainless Brewing that I've used on my past few IPAs. I tossed the second dry hop addition in four days after the first. This time around, I just threw the second dose right in with the first. I don't like making extra work for myself, and I'm not seeing the need to remove each dry hop addition. Anyway, typical stuff, I racked to a clean keg, fined with gelatin and carbed it up.
Stone's timing was amazing, as they released Enjoy By 05.17.13 on the same day I kegged my clone. I ended up calling mine Enjoy By 05.20.13. Kidding aside, this is without-a-doubt, the best comparison I've been able to make between a clone and commercial beer, as both were brewed and packaged on roughly the same dates.
So is it cloned? Overwhelming yes, with a slight caveat.
Appearance is absolutely 100% bang-on. I literally can't tell the beers apart by looking at them. The aroma follows the appearance: Absolutely identical. Huge fruity aromas that scream Southern Hemisphere hops, with pine and citrus in the background. There's a slightly dank character in both beers that I'm pretty sure comes from the Nelson, as my prior Galaxy beers didn't exhibit that.
The flavor is nearly identical. Huge hop flavor, some light, almost SMaSH like malt character, before a drying bitterness lingers. My beer has a hint more body, which took a few minutes to detect. I actually lost track of which beer was which, and that was the only difference I found.
Let's go back to that question: Is it cloned? I say yes because these two beers are brutally hard to distinguish. I said there's a caveat because this beer needs to be dried out roughly two more points. The yeast character from 007 was absolutely spot on, but we need more attenuation, which I'm genuinely not sure how to do. I mashed low and long, used plenty of yeast nutrients, pitched a big healthy slug of yeast, and added plenty of oxygen to the wort. This really leads me to believe that Stone's house yeast is more attenuative than 007 is. I'm probably going to brew this again with either 001 or 090, and see how the beer fairs with a neutral American strain. My thoughts are it'll be close, but the 007 beer will be closer despite the (slightly) bigger body.
Long story short, this is one of the best IPAs I've ever made. If you'd force me to choose between my recent Younger clone and this, you'd have to wait a long time for an answer, which leads to my next point. I'm getting married this Fall, and our wedding venue is allowing me to serve my own beer at the wedding. Choosing which three beers to serve, let alone a single IPA, has actually been really hard. Yet when I pulled the first sample from this keg I knew, this is the IPA I'm going to serve at our wedding.
And so, I'd like to thank Stone, and specifically Mitch Steele. Thanks for the awesome recipe, and supporting home brewers. This beer was all their work and efforts; I merely brewed it. If you're a fan of Enjoy By, you owe it to yourself it give this recipe a try. It's amazing.
Great post. I'm looking forward to giving this recipe (or something in a similar vein) a try in the near future. If you want to dry it out a bit more but still keep some of the 007 yeast character, maybe you can bump up the dextrose percentage a bit more? For an IPA this big I think you could go as high as 10% simple sugar with no ill effects.
ReplyDeleteThat's what I think my next step would be, going up to 1.3 or even 1.5lbs of Dextrose. As you said, I doubt the difference in flavor would be noticeable.
DeleteCongratulations on going steady Scott! Thats just Awesome! If you want to Keep the 007 profile you could just add some 001 a few days in the fermentation, most of the taste from the yeast will have developed by then in any case. Will definitinely have to try and brew this Sometime. Thanks for all your Hard work.
ReplyDeleteThat's another idea, which might work. Although I'm tempted to just use 001 from the start and see what it tastes like. This beer is so hop-forward, the difference might not be big.
DeleteCan I come to your wedding? There will be some happy people there with a 9.3% beer being served!
ReplyDeleteBut yeah, thanks for working on this one. If I can track down all the hops I'm going to give this a go sometime this summer.
Haha. Ya, I might back the OG down to 1.075 or even 1.070 to keep this beer a little more tame at the wedding.
DeleteReally awesome looking beer!
ReplyDeleteWhat would you recommend for switching WLP007 to a dry yeast? US05 or S04?
Cheers!
I would use 05. I've never been a fan of 04. It's a cleanly fermented beer, and I'd be surprised if the difference is too noticeable.
DeleteThanks for posting this, I can hardly wait to give it a try!
ReplyDeleteYeah the recipe is definitely spot on and really fantastic and thanks for the info from Mitch! This beer is seriously dangerously good the way it drinks.
ReplyDeleteI might try brewing this beer again without the dextrose. I'm going to find out if a additional dosage of oxygen at 12 hours will give the yeast what it needs to finish the beer out to the 84% or so. I know when I switched to pure 02 from air pump with this yeast my attenuation jumped from 72% consistently to 80% consistently. This is probably one of my favorite strains so It would be good to know how far it can be pushed.
Before adding a second dose of O2, I would recommend a simpler solution: A few days after pitching, gradually ramp up the ferment temp (say, 2 degrees F at a time) to the low-mid 70's (F) and hold for a few days. I think that would knock a few points off the TG.
DeleteI think if you went with an American yeast, you could definitely leave out the Dextrose. I'm not sold on 007 getting it done in an all-malt beer, but if you can pull it off, that'll be awesome.
DeleteThe additional dose of O2 would definitely help. I only hit the beer once for 90sec with pure O2, I have it imagine another blast would help.
Scott,
ReplyDeleteI've been reading your blog lately, and bookmarking several recipes to try out on my own system. I had a couple questions however.
When you dry hop in the keg, are you sealing the keg up entirely and bleeding it off randomly, or do you have a stopped with an airlock on it?
Mash hop additions. Do you mean first wert hopping or literally putting hops in with your mash? Based on how you wrote out the recipe I assume you're putting hops in the mash. Do you think this is really doing anything different than just doing a first wert hop addition?
Thanks for all your posts, I have about 5 recipes I want to try from your site!
--Chris
I seal up the keg with 12psi of CO2 (what my regulator is set at), then unhook the gas, and just let it sit pressurized at room temp. The beer picks up a little carbonation, but not much. Keep in mind, at the warm temps, it doesn't take in gas as well, and there's very little headspace in the keg, so the beer isn't noticeably carbonated at the end of dry hopping.
DeleteLiterally putting hops in the mash. I just stirred the hops in with the grains. I personally don't think it does much of anything, but they did it, so I followed. You could easily just FWH that addition instead.
Scott, I'm plugging your recipe into beersmith right now. Did the corn sugar go into the mash, or did you add it at a certain point in the boil?
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to brew this beast, wish Stone would send another batch up to Seattle already...
--Chris
I added it in the boil. I think 75min in? Just add it at some point then, it'll work fine.
DeleteTotally stoked to see the results of this. I only managed to find one bottle of 4.20.13 and have been dreaming of it ever since. Even my wife (who is decidedly not a hop head) wanted to steal the bottle from me.
ReplyDeleteWhat efficiency are your recipes calculated at? Much of my equipment is in storage while we wait to move into a new house, so I'll be BIABing my first batch of this and will need to adjust the recipe to compensate for the drop in efficiency.
Love the blog, and your photos are stellar!
My efficiencies vary based on the OG of the beer. For a beer like this, it's around 72-74%. For a 1.040-1.055 beer, it's closer to 84%.
DeleteThe more grain I use means I have to use more strike water, which in turn means I get less sparge water. That equals lower efficiency. But ya, this recipe was 72-74%.
Excellent Blog and your beers always look as good as I bet they taste, which brings me to my question. Can you comment on how you feel about hop aroma from your beers considering that you rack from the dry hops into a serving keg that doesn't contain dry hops. I always keg hop, and while I love the aroma I get, I hate how long it takes to get clear beer.
ReplyDeleteHave you found any lack in aroma due to not keg hopping, and have you ever tried finings such as gelatin or biofine while keg hopping? Anyway, love the all the great brew info. Cheers!
The few times I've tried keg hopping, I did find the hop aroma lasted a bit longer. Personally, I just share my big IPAs with friends, and make sure the keg is gone within 4 weeks or so.
DeleteIt definitely works, I just like clear beer right out of the gate.
What hop extract do you use?
ReplyDeleteI've bought it from Yakima Valley Hops as well as Northern Brewer. It's all pretty much the same stuff.
DeleteIf I can't find any hop extract local and don't have time to wait for mail order, can I use 2oz of Apollo (or something similar) instead?
DeleteOh, definitely. Warrior, Apollo, Summit, Bravo. Anything you can find that's over 15-16% would be fine.
DeleteYou want 20AAU so. 1oz of a 20% hop, or 1.17oz of a 17% hop. (just divide 20 by your alpha acid %).
So no matter what I do, I can't seem to make a decent ipa. My brew partner and I have made amazing examples of every other style of beer we have attempted, but for whatever reason our ipas are always sub-par. We've tried to isolate as many variables as we can, and after building our water profile from scratch instead of treating with campden and diluting with distilled, switching to kegging/purging with C02 and dry hopping in the keg,and adding a bit of acidulated malt, we can't find a reason that our ipas are sub-par.
ReplyDeleteWe recently brewed your Double Jack clone, with about 6.4 ounces of acid malt, and even dry hopping at room temperatures, got little to no hop aroma or flavor despite using fresh hops, and ended up with the same oddly off flavored beer we always end up with. This time it was a little more tart than usual (acid malt?) but i can't even begin to identify the culprit. I was hoping to pick your brain a little and try to identify our issue, as our only difference in our processes is dry hopping each stage with paint strainer bags in the keg we will be serving in, and fermenting in glass carboys instead of buckets. I still lean towards the dry hopping stage as our culprit as every beer we have ever made that wasn't dry hopped was fantastic, but was hoping you may have some advice.
Thank you for your amazing blog and all the leg work you have done on recreating some of the best beers in the world.
Wow, that is a head-scratcher. You've tried pretty much everything I would suggest.
DeleteHave you tried tasting the wort prior to putting it in the kegerator? It might help you to narrow down at which point you lose all your hop aroma (if it ever finds it's way into the beer at all). For your next IPA, I'd recommend taking a sample of the wort after it's been dry hopping for a couple days. I'd be pretty shocked if it doesn't taste hoppy at that point. From there you can see if you can pinpoint when it drops out.
Where do you get your hops and how fresh are they? I've had good batches go bad after dry hopping with what must have been old stale hops from my lhbs. Since I started buying fresh hops in bulk and vacuum sealing them myself my very hoppy IPA's taste and smell much better.
DeleteThank you for the great blog. Can you say what you were using for a water profile?
ReplyDeleteThanks! I use RO water, and add minerals back. For this beer I used 2tsp gypsum and .5tsp calcium chloride per 5gal of water treated. I also added 2% accidulated malt to the grist.
DeleteI might have missed a post where you explained this, but what do you do for oxygenation? Every time I read your blog I get excited to brew again, thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteLast year I finally broke down and bought an oxygenation kit from Williams Brewing. I like it because the 2micron stone is fixed to a long stainless wand, which is easy to clean/sanitize(boil).
DeleteThen I buy the red O2 bottles from the hardware store ($8-9)ea. They seem to last me around 6months or so, which is roughly 12-15 batches.
I picked up one of those dry hoppers, and immediately found another use for it, even before I had a chance to use it for its intended purpose. It makes an awesome siphon filter for racking from the kettle to the fermenter. No more failed whirlpools, and lets me get 99% of the usable wort out. Who would have thought ?... Now I just have to time my brewdays around my dry-hopping schedule. Hmmmmm..
ReplyDeleteWow, that's a really good use for it.
DeleteThis sounds like a great recipe. I had the Enjoy By at the local pub a few weeks ago when I saw it on the board. I'm a fan of Ruination so when I saw that I just had to try it. I just finished putting a Ruination clone in my primary about 10 minutes ago.
ReplyDeleteI'm going to put this recipe in Beersmith and see how it comes out in theory.
I'll vouch for this recipe. I tried it with the previous post's recipe, that I had made a few changes to due to hops, and it is ridiculously close. I will be excited to try this revision of it. I ended up using 1.5 lbs of Candi Sugar, and adding it at 10 min of boil time. I'm just waiting for my hop extract to get in before I make this one.
ReplyDeleteNice! Let's here how the revised version turns out.
DeleteI brewed this clone yesterday. Everything went along nicely until I discovered I had forgotten to add the flameout hops. The wort was already cooled down and transferred to the fermenter.
ReplyDeleteI kinda panicked for a while until I decided that I maybe was able to make a hop tea.
I then put all the flameout hops in a sauce pan along with about 2 oz of dextrose and put it to a boil and let it simmer for about five minutes and then cooled it down and poured it into the fermenter along with the wort.
How do you think this will effect the beer? Will it still be kinda the same?
Honestly, I think you'll be more ok than you think. This beer has so much dry hop aroma and flavor, that the difference might not be that noticeable.
DeleteThanks Scott. I really appreciate your response.
DeleteI've had the beer in primary for 13 days at 64-66 degrees F. Yesterday I transferred it to secondary. The fermentation had slowed down quite a bit, but still "bubbled" about once every 90 seconds or so. I measured the SG to 1.020.
One thing I noted was that the beer was a bit carbonated. Haven't seen that one before...
I tossed about 2/3 of a Safale US-05 into the beer in hope to get the SG down a bit. Do you think it will be possible to bring it down all the way to 1.012?
(Forgot to write that the hop tea also consisted of about 34 fl oz of water)
ReplyDeleteHi Scott. Forgive the Noob question. The Dextrose listed with the grain bill.....do you mash it or ad it at the end of the boil??? Thanks, Rick
ReplyDeleteAnytime in the boil. I think I added mine around 45min, but anytime from 90min to flameout will work just fine.
DeleteThanks. BTW. GREAT blog, great pics....pretty much all around GREAT. Looking fwd to more.
ReplyDeleteThanks, I really appreciate it!
DeleteI'll admit, your clone recipe is the most excited homebrew I've done in years, if not all-time. I can account for the effectiveness of WLP090's attenuation. I did a 2L starter (wanted to be damn certain) with two vials on a stir plate. I just racked to the keg today, checked, and it was at a beautiful 1.010. I've recently grown fond of the yeast, and am convinced if you need a dry, neutral ale, there's no question this is the yeast for the job.
ReplyDeleteThat's awesome! It's also great to here that WLP090 kicked ass with this grist, as I literally brewed this exact recipe again on Sunday with WLP090.
Delete1. 3L Starter to Sparge Water to Final Batch Size Ratios:
ReplyDeleteI am attempting a clone of your Enjoy By 05.17.13 clone. How is the 3 Liter starter calculated in as not to affect the final batch size of 6 gallons? Is the 3L starter filling in for the approximate 3L boil-off? I am using Brew365.com's Mash & Sparge Water Calculator which takes boil-off into account as approximately 3L. Do I boil less wort than a calculator like Brew365.coms' is accounting for to make room for the yeast? Won't that much yeast starter affect the flavor of the brew? Looking to understand this aspect.
2. General Starter Questions:
I have never created a starter before. My Stir Plate just arrived from UPS and I'm ready to give it a go.
You stated: "I started off by whipping up a 3L starter of WLP007 on my stir plate. I hit the starter with plenty of nutrients and O2 before pitching in a fresh vial. That fermented out pretty quick"
a) What "nutrients" and how much? … DME
b) "O2"?
c) "fresh vial" -- 35mls vial of WLP007?
d) "That fermented out pretty quick" … how quick? … how will I know?
Thanks for posting the recipe. I have been brewing for a while but do not have the time/desire to switch to all grain yet. I was thinking of using beersmith and converting this to an extract recipe. Do you think it would be doable and would you have any tips?
ReplyDeleteI'm confused how this recipe is only 90 IBUs, when the hopshot addition itself is about 90 IBUs? Help?
ReplyDelete